上海的上生新所，在某种意义上，其实是一个与米兰的PRADA FOUNDATION 连接的社区，尽管隔空，但却相通。其整体改造均出自OMA 大都会事务所之手。 而Kolon Sport 可隆所在的这个魔盒，是整个上生新所社区的核心。裸筑最初的想法，是希望将 REM的这个镜面魔盒打开，犹如打开一只来自米兰的潘多拉魔盒，有趣的事情就此发生。这是一组很有趣的，发生在上海与米兰之间的对话，而承载这组对话的，正式这个户外品牌—— Kolon Sport。 以建筑立意，以空间找形，以展陈叙事。同为建筑事务所，这也是裸筑对这座房子，对 OMA 这样顶级事务所的致敬。
In Shanghai, Columbia Circle is a community reminds you of Prada Foundation in Milan in certain sense. Although they are situated at different places, they do have something in common. Their renovations are both made by OMA generally. The magic box in which Kolon Sport is located is the heart of the whole community. Roarc Renew is expected to open the mirror box of REM just like a Pandora’s box from Milan and take on interesting scenes. This was an interesting conversation between Shanghai and Milan. It was the outdoor brand Kolon Sport that provided a platform for the conversation. We made our points in architecture, shaped the building in space and told our stories with exhibitions. As another architectural firm, Roarc Renew showed our respect toward this house and the top firm OMA.
可隆机能
Kolon’s functions
自智人直立行走开始，服装也随之而来。从草编，丝编。从古代农业文明的桑麻手作，到工业革命之后的纺织业兴盛。如今快时尚化纤人造。服装随人类的进化，退化，演化，而各谋其能。拨开视觉呈现，服之本体，先是护，再而美。试想汉献帝为何要有“衣带之诏”？那时的汉服，没有隐蔽的口袋，只能藏在系带之内，从而带出皇城号令天下诸侯伐曹。我想这可以算是最早对“机能”二字原型的理解：在遵循某个物体客观事实条件之外的附加属性，数量越多，属性越强。
Garments appeared as homo sapiens began to walk upright, ranging from straw clothes to silk clothes, from linen crafting in ancient agricultural civilization to the booming textile industry in industrial revolution. Nowadays, fashionable chemical fibers have become man-made. With evolution and degradation of human beings, garments’ functions vary. Leaving visual appearance aside, garments play the role of protection first and beauty comes next. Why did Emperor Xian of East Han dynasty send a belt edict to its followers? Hanfu then had no hidden pocket so the edict could be only hidden in the belt and taken out of the imperial palace to order dukes or princes to rage against Cao Cao. I reckon this might be the earliest understanding of the word “function” in the field of garments that is to bring additional properties to an object, and the more added, the stronger properties are.
而可隆，就在干这个事儿。
Kolon is committing itself to it.
不同行业的设计案，其实就是在寻找不同行业的“法门”，这则法门是进入看清行业本质的条件。
Design programs of different industries are to find out laws of the industries.The laws are the indispensable condition to understand essence of the industries.
与其说可隆在做机能，不如说，户外，就是机能属性的堆叠。在尊重客观条件的前提下，附加机能属性的数量。若用王国维的人间词话的一句，看山是山。看山不是山。看山，还是山。看机能，看衣服，还是衣服。如果仔细穿过可隆的衣服，隐藏的滑袋，荷叶原理的不沾水ROE面料，自加热的保暖。衣服还是衣服，没变。那什么变了？是科技，是机能属性上升了。裸筑理解的设计，是对本质的转译。裸筑在用建筑语言，讲属于品牌的“机能”，是处处皆机能的充盈，建筑语言对品牌的解读。
Kolon is adding functions. Or rather, outdoor products mean stacking of functions and properties. They add functions and properties on the premise of abiding by objective conditions. Just as Chinese poet Guowei Wang said in his Poetic Remarks in the Human World, first you see mountain as a mountain, then you see mountain is not a mountain and finally you see mountain is still a mountain. Although we mentioned functions, clothes are finally clothes. If you tried Kolon clothes, you will find the hidden slip pocket, water-tight ROE fabric in lotus leaf principles and self-heating function. They are still clothes. But what’s the differences? It’s the technology and growing functions and properties. According to understanding of Roarc Renew, design is a translation of essence.
体面地打开建筑的机能，兼具本能与公共性。在本案的整体改造中，建筑是个满布镜面的方盒子。若只是盒子，那并不机能，这建筑并不可隆。此时可隆已经是含有机能暗语的形容词了。所以我要让它“体面的打开”。也就是可隆的魔盒想开了。魔盒想开，是一个动机。但现在的开法，这就是机能本能。整体镜面一旦上旋而开，其足够机能。为何呢？所有科技属性，机关，巧思，尽藏于魔盒里，是一种惊喜，就像藏于袖臂的运动滑袋，下雨不沾水的面料科技，衣服还是衣服，体验不同了。
Roarc Renew is talking about functions of a brand in architectural language. Functions are everywhere, and our understanding of the brand can also be found in many details. We need to initiate functions of the building in a graceful way and the functions must cover both intrinsic properties and public properties. In general renovation of this project, the building is a mirror box. If it is only a box, it is not quite functional and not quite Kolon. Here Kolon is an adjective implying functional. We need to let it initiate in a graceful way. In other words, Kolon box wants to initiate, which is a motive. Yet present initiating way shows its intrinsic property. If the whole mirror spins up and initiates, it is functional enough. Why? All the technological properties and gears are hidden in the box, which is a surprise, just like sports slip pocket hidden in the sleeves and water-tight fabric. They are still clothes, but providing a different experience.
而这种体验在公共性上的表达，也正是裸筑在第二个层面的关键思考即品牌与消费群体的关系。从过往聚焦于运营产品到当下的运营用户，品牌都愈加关注自我的社群乃至是构建起以一个社区体系。设计其实则更像是一座bridge，而它所带来的空间是链接商业与用户的载体，形成双向、彼此的需求转译。藉由“魔盒想开”的动态建筑机能，做到室内与室外完全互联，以开放式的状态融入整个上生新所，以一种以退为进的方式，让人群自觉或是不自觉地走入店内。也借助这样的机能，让整个场所形成一体多翼的延展，它可以是品牌文化中心、社群社交空间等等。在室内空间的设计上，我们亦是沿用这样的思考，不论是材质的使用上，道具的陈列，又或是节点的设计上，都会发现，我们会通过设计去放大品牌的特性或者是它专属的机能，用户外的绳索去组构空间、用可隆的帐篷去构建一个咖啡馆、可隆的科技面料去形成展墙的设计语言，等等，一方面是为了让场域回归品牌本身的机能，另一方式为通过这种特性去折叠品牌与公众的距离。
In expression of public properties, this kind of experience is a key thought of Roarc Renew at the second level, i.e. the relation between the brand and consumer groups. Brands pay more attention to their own community or even build a community system, from focusing on products to focusing on consumers. Design is more like a bridge. Designed space is a platform connecting brand and consumers and translates bilateral needs. Through the dynamic architectural function that the box wants to initiate, indoor spaces and outdoor spaces are totally connected and combined with the whole Columbia Circle in an open way. In such a concessional way, visitors consciously or unconsciously walk into the store. Through this function, the whole space is composed of a body and multiple wings. It can be a brand culture center and a social space. In interior space design, we have the same thoughts. No matter in materials, tools display or in node design, the properties or special functions of the brand can be found everywhere thanks to the considered design. For example, we use outdoor ropes to build a space and use Kolon tent to create a coffee space and Kolon’s technological fabrics to form an exhibition wall. We make the space field return to the intrinsic function of the brand on the one hand, and shorten the distance between the brand and the public through this property on the other.
释放可隆机能，兼具自然与商业性。
Kolon functions reflect both natural properties and commercial properties.
户外绳索组构整个空间，其出发点是源于“户外是什么”这个问题，户外是人类与自然的亲密接触。而人毕竟弱小，需要保护。在户外的种种不便，不比室内，万物皆备于我。在户外，需要的是最简的工具，最大的保护。那为什么是绳呢？最小的体积，重量，可以圈出最大的适宜空间，且形式几何。拉、绷、伸、紧等等数种姿态，绳体自身作为媒介，与这个世界的关与系。
We use outdoor ropes to build the whole space. The idea originated from a question “what are outdoors”. Outdoors is a close contact between human beings and the nature. Human beings are weak and need protection after all. Inconvenience exists everywhere outdoors while all things are well prepared indoors. We need simplest tools and maximum protection outdoors. Why ropes? Ropes have the minimum volume and weight to make the maximum space in any geometric shapes. Ropes, as a medium, connect with the world in various forms, e.g. stretching, tightening and straightening.
帐篷咖啡形成空间的功能复用，从绳引出的可隆帐篷咖啡，是商业上的概念。本质是绳关系体系中的一项承载。帐篷咖啡居中，虽整体表达为科学严谨的逻辑体系，但传承的本质是东方的待客之道。户外帐篷的形式多样，通过拉链开合，控制门和窗的开启大小与位置。将帐篷的设计点利用到帐篷咖啡中，店员通过篷布的开合，控制不同的功能吧台，让帐篷在咖啡出品、店铺收银、DJ打碟、收摊关闭等不同功能间快速转换。可隆帐篷咖啡就是一层空间的控制台，不同帐篷模式的转换，对应不同的吧台功能，继而影响整个空间的功能复用。
Tent coffee realizes function reuse of the space. Kolon tent coffee erected with ropes is a commercial concept. It is carried by the rope system. Tent coffee is situated in the center. It generally expressed a scientific and strict logic system and inherited oriental hospitality. Outdoor tents vary greatly in forms. We can control opening and position of doors and windows through zippers. Clerks can open counters of different functions through opening and closing of tent cloth so that the tent can switch quickly for different functions e.g. coffee production, cashiering, DJ and closing. Kolon tent coffee is a control console of the first floor of the space. Different tent modes correspond to different counter functions, offering various function in the space.
静态力场作用下的非表里表现。预应力，甚至是藏在绳背后的立场凝结。迎门之位，一股预应力的张悬梁台面。其应力体系的逻辑与绳如出一辙，无非是材料语言换成了钢。
在整个空间中，设计的表达式为可隆户外绳，绳的护，绳的机能。而在绳的背后，发现空间中充斥的静态立场，这恰恰是机能的本质：看得到的是一回事，看不到的暗涌，全藏着。静态立场同时也运用在照明设计中。通过照度计算与分析，在空间中将光均匀的打亮成为了本次设计的目的。
Invisible expressions in a static field. Prestress comes behind ropes. At the door you can find a prestressed beam string countertop. Its stress system is almost the same as ropes logically except that it is made of steel. In the whole space, visible expressions are Kolon outdoor ropes, e.g. excellent protection and other functions. But you can also find invisible expressions in the static field, which is exactly essence of the functions. There are some visible things on the one hand and some hidden things on the other. Static field is also applied in illumination design. By illuminance calculation and analysis, the space is lightened up homogeneously in the space.
户外最简单的悬挂方式就是两点之间拉绳绷直，将物体悬挂上去。在空间中，我们也在横、纵方向布置了绳索，通过滑轮将绳索牵引到收紧器当中。
The simplest hanging way for outdoors is to straighten a rope between two points and hang articles. In the space, we also arranged ropes horizontally and vertically and pulled ropes into tighteners with pulleys.
绳索不同于常见的工程材料，它具有一定的韧性，会随着时间的推移，绷紧的拉力也会在一定范围内慢慢变松弛。所以裸筑在工厂提前做了1：1的样品，进行长时间的负荷试验，最终选出合适的收紧器，让绳索的拉力时刻保持紧绷状态。而后根据经纬方向，悬挂灯具，同时这股被拉力禁锢的秩序也就蛰伏在空间当中。
Being different from common engineering materials, ropes are flexible in tenacity. As time goes, tension become loosened in certain degree. For this reason, Roarc Renew made a 1:1 sample in the factory in advance to make long-time load test and finally determined suitable tighter to keep ropes always tight. Then we hang lamps and lanterns in longitude and latitude directions. This tension order was also hidden in the space.
预应力道具，实现家具尺度上的“大跨结构”。裸筑常将建筑尺度的预应力归纳成茧，应用在其他的维度上。地球上恒定存在的一种力，即是重力，在大跨度的结构中，为了与重力抗争，人们想出了预应力——给结构预先施加一个力，来抵消受重力影响产生的形变。设计在这里，将预应力施加到弓弦型的桁架结构中，作为可隆1973一楼空间长展桌的主梁，实现家具尺度上的“大跨结构”。
Prestressed tools helped realize “large span structure”of furniture. Roarc Renew often sees prestresses of buildings as cocoon and applies the principle elsewhere. There is a constant force on the earth, that is, gravity. In long-span structures, to resist gravity, people come up with pretressing – to apply a force to the structure in advance to offset the deformation caused by gravity. In this design, prestress was applied to the bowstring truss structure. As the main beam of the long exhibition table on the first floor of Kolon Sport 1973, “large-span structure” of furniture was realized.
表达力在空间中的形态，裸筑发掘更多力传递的形式。比如机场登机的驳接空桥，多是利用空腹桁架作为主结构。提取结构形式，等比例缩小，我们把空腹桁架也用到了展台、展架的体系中，材料更轻更薄的同时，满足更大跨度的使用需求。再通过可隆户外绳索拉接，使其固定。在一开始，我们发现单根的绳索只能保证力在一个方向（重力竖向）上的传递，而其他方向（横向偏摆）就很容易摇晃，所以我们尝试再多增加一些侧向的绳索，来抵消潜在的偏摆力，最后我们发现，一旦绳索传递的拉力与拉力，构成了三角几何形，那么他就很容易稳固了，这种力在不同尺度上的应用，也给了我们很多启发。
Roarc Renew explored more forms of force transmission when expressing forms of force in space. Let’s take the air bridge for airport boarding for example, open-web truss is mostly used as the main structure. Taking the structure and scaling it down at the same proportion, we also used open-web truss in booths and exhibition frames. The structure is not only lighter and thinner, but also offering larger spans for service demand. Then it was fixed by Kolon outdoor ropes. At the beginning, we found that a single rope could only guarantee transmission of force in one direction (vertical gravity), while it was easy to shake in the other direction (lateral yaw), so we tried to add more lateral ropes to offset the potential yaw force, and finally we found that once tensions transmitted by ropes formed a triangular, it is easily stabilized. Application of forces on different scales also gave us a lot of inspirations.
Soft-joints 软节点 ，链接空间与品牌。这是可隆品牌细节与建筑空间对话。我们发现利用品牌自身的产品特性，可以加工成为空间中的设计点，产生一种和解，在这个空间中，我们引入了一个新的节点概念——Soft-joints软节点。何为软节点，就好比本来一颗螺丝的固定，而我们用了纽扣；榫卯连接的地方，我们却用了拉链；胶粘的地方，用绳索捆绑；展陈的A型柱，用了高密度尼龙织带；展台的台面，用布绷直……这一系列可隆服装设计上的面料、五金，被安装到空间里，室内就有了自己的行衣风格。
Soft-joints connect the space and the brand. This is a dialogue between brand details of Kolon and the architectural space. We found that product characteristics of the brand can be made as design points in the space and generate a reconciliation. In this space, we introduced a new concept of joints – soft-joints. What is a soft-joint? It is like that we use buttons instead of screws for fixing, that we use zippers instead of mortise and tenon joints, that we use rope binding instead of gluing, that we use high-density nylon straps for A-shaped columns and that we stretch cloth to realize counters. These fabrics and metals from Kolon garments are arranged in the space so that the indoor space has its own clothing style.
二层的墙面是很好的展陈空间，但原有的窗洞成了阻碍，若完全封闭上，会使空间闭塞。
Walls of the second floor is a good exhibition space, but the original window is an obstacle. If it is completely closed, the space will be blocked.
为解决这个难点，裸筑尝试用可隆的科技面料，透气、透光、易清洁，是最好的遮帘。有了这层背景面料，如何在上面展陈又成了新问题。这时我们发现可隆户外登山背包的背带，有很多多功能编织束带，能收纳安装各种户外配件。裸筑把这个工艺加工到了织带上，再把织带两头，绷紧安装在窗的上下边缘，作为展柱。而后利用拉链，将科技布安装在两根织带展柱内。
In order to solve this issue, Roarc Renew tried technological fabrics of Kolon, which are breathable, transparent and easy to clean. They are the best curtain. With this background fabric, there was a new problem – how to display on it? Then Kolon hiking backpack straps come to our mind. There are many multi-functional woven straps, which can accommodate a variety of outdoor accessories. Roarc Renew applied them to ribbons, and then tightened two ends of the ribbons and arranged them on the upper and lower edges of the window as a display column. With zippers, the technological cloth is installed in the two ribbon exhibition columns.
正因为有了这基础展墙的设计语言，那接下来的工作也就很明确了，我们为其专门开发了一套服装展陈系统，即正挂、侧挂、叠放、台面展陈、海报悬挂、屏幕悬挂、空间标识系统等，细小到一颗倾扣，一个拉链头，一块水洗标……无不烙印着可隆文化，也让店铺本身，成为一间工艺展厅。
With design of this basic exhibition wall, following work is clear. We specially developed a garment display system, including front hanging, side hanging, stacking, display on counter, poster hanging, screen hanging and space identification system. All details demonstrate Kolon culture no matter it’s a button, a zipper or a care label. The store itself also acts as an exhibition hall.
展布成面，织带拉链成线，登山绳索拉接成点，所有的空间节点我们都尽可能的让它“软下来”。用空间中的软件点呼应服饰本身的特征。
We used exhibition cloth, ribbons, zippers, hiking ropes and all spacial nodes to make the space soft to the maximum extent. Soft points in the space echo with characteristics of garments.
可隆户外的机能转译。以上种种的机能，都是一种预埋。裸筑希望的空间或者说是载体，是“人”（社群）、“货”（品牌）往同一“场”（场域，地方）的不同模数的变化与聚集。而在可隆这个商业空间的项目中，我们更关注以设计去打开新的场景，或者说是以设计的维度尝试去搭建从商业、生活方式到品牌文化，贯穿个体、邻居商户乃至社群圈层这样一种新的零售场景，这才是魔盒打开的真正意义。
Function transformation for Kolon outdoor. The functions mentioned above are only an embedded part of the project. Roarc Renew believes space is a carrier of field (place) for people (community) and goods (brand), where elements can evolve and get together. For this commercial space project, we pay much more attention to open up the new scenario. In a word, we are trying to build up a retail scenario that includes commercial element, lifestyle and brand culture, a magic box that you can find a place for individual, neighborhood and the community.
这也是近年来，我们想通过设计去试着构筑品牌的社会学实践，包括打开建筑，去与公共空间的融合，留给整个街区，乃至于穿梭于上生新所的人群；特别以户外特性的绳索元素搭建起整个空间、以品牌面料/材质构建陈设系统、比比皆旨在将品牌调性交融于空间之中；让场域回归应有的属性，让陈设回归功能，透过设计的四两拨千斤，共同去打磨一个集品牌文化、咖啡、户外露营、可隆路营实验室社群活动、开放共创空间的场所，更意图通过设计介入品牌文化去折叠其陌生感，将用户快速代入，获取文化认同，递进到品牌认同，能与街区融合、与社群谋合，这是空间生命体的真实意涵。
It’s what Roarc Renew were doing in past few years, creating sociological influence for brand with considered design. We open up the building and integrate it with the public space so that neighborhood and passersby can also get a glimpse of it; the strong outdoor style ropes setting up the space, and the displaying system was decorated with brand fabrics/materials, blending the brand element into the space naturally ; we try to bring back the essential function of the space and the displaying system, with ingenious design we created an open space full of brand elements that you can have a cup of coffee, outdoor camping, and join the KOLON ROAD LAB activity. We intend to integrate the brand culture seamlessly with the space to quickly win over the audiences so that brand recognition is achieved with cultural recognition. As we take root into the neighborhood and community, the brand can find its strength growing in the space.
▲项目平面
项目信息——
项目名称：Kolon Sport 可隆1973
建筑及空间设计：裸筑更新建筑设计事务所
设计时间：2022年2月 – 2022年6月
建造时间：2023年1月 – 2023年9月
主持合伙人：柏振琦
副合伙人：薛乐骞
设计团队：盛朦萱，伍恩泽，吴叶静，梁潇怡
业主团队：可隆品牌市场部、可隆零售市场部
结构设计：栾栌构造设计事务所
灯光设计：ELA寻光（降昭龙 刘峰 柳青青）
插画：盛朦萱、黄泓升、吴叶静
施工顾问：EMCC结庐（张成华）
建筑面积：500m2
摄影：WenStudio ，裸筑更新
Project Information——
Project Name：Kolon Sport 1973
Design of the building/interior/Furniture: Roarc Renew（roarc.design）
Principal Architect: Robben BAI
Deputy Architect: Leqian XUE
Design team members: Mengxuan SHENG, Enze WU, Yejing WU, Xiaoyi LIANG
Structure Design: Luan Lu Architectural Design Firm
Lighting Design: ELA Xunguang （Zhaolong JIANG, Feng LIU, Qingqing LIU）
Diagram: Mengxuan SHENG, Yejing WU, hongsheng WU
Photo Credits: WenStudio and Arch-Exist Photography
Client: Brand & Marketing department of KOLON, Retail department of KOLON, Tanjin JU, Hongjie SONG
Construction Consultant: Chenghua ZHANG from EMCC
Floor Area：500m2
Date of Design (start and completed date): 2022/2 – 2022/6
Date of Construction (start and completed date): 2023/01 – 2023/09
